By Yeast Alone: Port’s Monster Red

Jaws-esque you might even say

This week we are reviewing a favorite style of mine, the Irish Red. But because we don’t do anything easy or light at BYA, we’re going with a double ale. We anticipate double the malt and double the hops. This weeks’ selection comes from the world famous Port Brewing Company, based out of San Diego. I must emphasize world famous because the head brewer at Port, Tomme Arthur is extremely well respected throughout the brewing community.

Tomme has been extremely brave in trying new concoctions for his beers, using fruits, aging beer in different barrels, and completely altering how brewers think about yeast.

The problem with Irish Style Reds in America is that we really don’t make them. The most popular is the Killian’s Irish Red, which is brewed by Coors. The problem with Killian’s is that it is nothing similar to the original Killian’s produced in Ireland. Also, Killian’s sold in America is lager, not an ale. The difference between an ale and a lager of course is the type of yeast used. Ale yeast ferments at the top of the barrel of beer and usually at a warmer temperature, while lager yeast is at the bottom, and usually at a slightly cooler temperature. Britain is usually considered a nation of great Ales; for the rest of the world, usually the top beer brand is a lager. Budweiser, Miller, and Coors are all lagers.

In America, as craft breweries have started to produce Irish Red’s of their own, but they have severely altered the style that grew up in Ireland. In America, particularly among the California hop-head breweries, they have started putting tons of flavor and hops in their beers. The Beer Judge Certifcation Program, (BJCP) usually a fair judge of how limit the style of a beer, claims that a Red should have “generally no flavor hops, although some examples may have a light English hop flavor. Medium-low hop bitterness…”

The website of Port sadly does not have a description of their beer, probably because it is a rare a seasonal. The bottle claims Shark Attack is a “bold American Red Ale that attacks your taste buds with lethal amounts of hops which are balanced by a boat load of crystal malt.” Ooh, the taste buds are already wetting in anticipation!

Aroma: Fantastic. Just like the bottles claims, tons of Crystal Malt and great fantastic, some might even call epic smelling hops. Beautiful floral hop smell. There is also a great hint of roasted barley, the chief ingredient in what turns a Red Ale red. There is also just a hint of pine in the hops, delivering a thoroughly refreshing smell. Nine out of Ten.

Appearance: The beer pours a very dark red, enticing and yet foreboding, because it is so opaque. This beer looks thick and deep. We do have complaint, the beer delivers no head, None, at all. The picture you see above, that was taken one second after pour. All beer needs a bit of head to release some of the flavors that were trapped in the bottle. Four out of Five.

Flavor: Ohhhh, Wow. Can I go back and give it 10 out 10 on aroma? This beer deserves a perfect score. Delicious roasted barley feel gives way to the piney scent we had before, but at this point, it has become a slight sideways hint of spearmint. Ten out of Ten.

Palate: A very interesting palate, or mouth feel. As we mentioned above, the low carbonation that reduces the amount of head also goes on as a strike against the beer. As I get deeper into the beer, it starts to become flat. Which is annoying. Because of the odd piney/spearmint flavors present, the palate feel is weird because that flavor sticks in my mouth, and I keep waiting for that odd burning sensation I get when brushing my teeth. Four out of Five.
Desire fo’ “nother: Right now, after finishing that first beer, a 750mL monster, I have no reason to drink another beer. At 9% alcohol by volume that is a lot going down on this empty stomach. I also have a plan to try a wide variety of the West Coast Reds prior to returning to this one. So inspite of being quite tasty, this beer doesn’t stir up a strong desire. Three out of Five.

To affix this beer properly with our dating analogy from our first review, this beer is like that girl your friend introduced you to but you have heard rumors from some of your other friends that she’s quite a load to handle. The kind of girl the first time out, she’ll be all neat and friendly, but later, as you get to know her, the depth of her and the ahhh, oddness of her flavors come out. The kind of girl you don’t go the bar to meet, but you sure as hell don’t mind going back and finding her a second or third time.

Overall, the Shark Attack earned a 30 out of 35, the best ranking yet. This is a beer for hop heads who like Reds. Or for the adventurous types who need a new brew. This beer is heady and important, so you better treat it as so.

Important Notes:
Purchased: $3.99, 99 Bottles in Federal Way
Food During Tasting: None
Music During Tasting: Minnesota Twins, Defeat the Texas Rangers (hey, baseball had been dead for four days, I was going nuts)
Rate Beer Rating: 95 percentile, 3.75 out of 5 (average)
Beer Advocate Rating: B+
By Yeast Alone Rating: 30/35
Alcohol %: 9% by Volume
Malts: Crystal (various), Roasted Barley, probably others
Hops: Cascade (and lots of it), Centennial
Yeast: California Ale, I’m actually not sure, but this is what the Shark Bite, Port’s other red uses.
Water: San Diego water
Brewery Website: http://www.portbrewing.com/index.html